Process of the manufacture of gem-settings.



F. E. PARNHAM. PROCESS OF THE MANUFACTURE OF GEM SETTINGS.

APPLIOATION FILED MAR. 28, 1912 1,050,935. Patented Jan.21,1913.

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PROCESS OF THE MANUFACTURE OF GEM-SETTINGS.

Application filed March 28, 1912.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRANK E. FARNHAM, acitizen of the United States, residing at Providence, in the county ofProvidence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Processes of the Manufacture of Gem-Settings, ofwhich the following is a specification, reference being had therein tothe accompanying drawing.

My invention relates to the processes of the manufacture of gemsettings.

In the accompanying drawings like reference numerals indicate likeparts.

Figure 1 is a plan view of the blank or washer from which my improvedbox setting is made. Fig. 2 is a view, partly in elevation and partly indiametrical section, of said blank or washer. Fig. 3 is a view, partlyin elevation and partly in diametrical section, and illustrates theresult of the second operation on the blank or washer. Fig. i is a view,partly in elevation and partly in diametrical section, and representsthe result of the third (or trimming) opera tion upon the blank. Fig. 5is a view, partly in elevation and partly in diametrical section, andshows the result of the final (on drawing) operation on the blank andconstitutes the completed box setting. Fig. 6 is a view, partly inelevation and partly in diametrical cross section, and shows a gem orstone held by the turnover edge of the setting and resting on the seator bearing. Fig. 7 is a diametrical section of a modified form of acupped blank, adapted to be used in my said invention.

In the prior art of the manufacture of gem settings, leaded brass hasbeen the only kind of metallic stock available forthis manufacture.Leaded brass differs from the common brass in that a certain per cent.of lead or other metal is added as an alloy. Such alloy is used for thepurpose of changing the character of the brass, so that in removing themetal by a cutting tool, such alloyed metal will not tear, catch, jam,or clog the machine, and the chips are not long, but break off, while inthe cutting operation, and will form waste in small sections or pieces.Any suitable metal may be used'in my improved process, but for thecheaper grades, the stock which is to be used is preferably gildingmetal or gilders metal, composed of about 95 per cent. ofabout 5percent. of zinc.

copper, an It is easily Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 21, 1913.

Serial No. 686,746.

worked, is very homogeneous; does not break, split, or crack, during thevarious operations; and is susceptible of a high finish and a superiorcoloring.

In my improved box setting and in the process of its manufacture, apiece of flat stock of gilding or other metal is pierced at regular andsuitable intervals, and then the blank is cut therefrom to form awasher, as represented in Fig. 1, the outer circle showing the peripheryof the blank O with a central circular aperture P. The blank, so made,is cupped by die and plunger to the shape shown in Fig. 2, partly inelevation and partly in diametrical section, comprising an inclined baseQ, with a conically inclined edge as thick as the original stock.

The cupped washer, shown in Fig. 2 is placed in a die, and by a suitableplunger is forced or cold-swaged into the form shown in Fig. 3 indiametrical section and in elevation. Here, the base S has becometubular and its bottom edge is horizontal, but the flange T is veryflaring and much reduced in thickness. By this cold-swaging operationthe flange T is considerably hardened and is less ductile than the baseS, and the base is of uniform thickness. The next step in the process isto form the edge of the flange T with a smooth finish, or to give itsuch ornamental peripheral form as may be useful for gem-settingpurposes, such as a knurled, beaded, serrated, scalloped, fluted, orother kind of edge. The hardness of the flange T enables the formationof a very accurate and beautifully finished wearing edge. This operationresults in a gem set: ting having an ornamented edge, such, for example,as that shown in Fig. 4, or a perfectly straight edge may be formed.Fig.

- 4: is a diametrical section of the trimmed ring so formed. The blankshown in Flg. 3 is placed in a trimming die and the surplus metal isremoved by cutter action, leaving the trimmed edge T. The annular flangeT of Fig. i is angle of about 40 or 45 from the base S. The trimmingtool is applied to the flange T in a direction substantially parallelwith the tubular sides of the base S, so that the edge of said flange Thas a bevel such that when it is bent over to cramp the gem X, the bevelwill extend parallel to the base V V, as represented at z 2. Finally,the trimmed blank is placed in a draw plate,

flared so as to extend at an By means of trimming cutters and by meansof a suitable plunger is forced through the aperture of the draw plateinto its finished form, and becomes an article of merchandise as ajewelers finding. In Fig. 5 this finished form of the completed boxsetting is shown. In this figure V is the base, U is the sloping seatfor the gem, and W is the flange which is to be turned over upon thefacets or surface of the gem. The flange W is now seen to be of the samediameter as the body or ring V, which constitutes the base of the gemsetting. The edge of the flange W is seen to be beveled, as shown at a,and when the flange is bent over upon the gem said beveled surface 2will extend in a plane parallel to the outer edge of the base V V.

The following are some of the practical advantages of my said improvedbox setting and of the process of its manufacture. (a). Flat stock isused in this construction, which is cheaper than tubing, or solid,cylindrical, metal rods. (6). It is not necessary to use leaded brass,but any desired kind of metal may be used. (0). The cost of manufactureof box settings by my improved process is less than in the use of any ofthe previous methods known. (03). The cost of finishing my said boxset-tings is less than in the other modes of manufacture because theyare burnished to a finish in the process. (6). My improved box settingscan be formed into squares, ovals and other shapes, without any dangerof splitting. (f). When soldered to the brooch or other piece ofjewelry, my said box settings are softer and more ductile than leadedstock can possibly be, and therefore they fit over the gem much moreclosely than box settings of the other methods of manufacture. (g). Bymy improved process it is possible to make the upper edges of the boxsetting knurled, beaded, serrated, scalloped, pointed, fluted, or tootherwise vary the design of said edges, or to finish them with plainsurfaces. (72.). By my improved process the upper peripheral edge isbeveled and therefore the setting is able to turn over upon the gem intoa very close contact with the stone, and presents no surface or portionto catch upon a garment or fabric. (2'). The turned-over edge can bemade exceedingly thin, without danger of tearing out the material whilein process. (7'). These box settings can be carried in stock in theswaged form, and any pattern of edge can be produced at short notice.(is). of varying diameters different heights of turn-over edges can beobtained from the same swaged blanks.

My improved box settings above described are a new and useful invention,as also the new process employed in their manufacture. 'I have not onlyfully set forth the several steps or stages of the development thereoffrom the original blank to the finished product, but I will now explainthe elemental change introduced as one of the steps or stages of thisprocess which gives peculiar advantages to the box setting. This relatesto the formation of the flange T in Fig. 3, for the purpose of givingthe very smooth and accurate finished edge desired,

and the various designs or ornamentation.

By the cold-swaging already described, the flange T shown in Fig. 3 ismade hard and dense so that when the trimming tool is applied to itthere is a clean cut removing the surplus metal without tearingandwithout subjecting it to any breakage resulting from the naturalbrittleness or granular quality which ordinarily accompanies the use ofleaded stock, which harmful qualities make it impossible to produce onthe resulting edge any of the ornamental and beautiful designs which aredistinctive of my improved box settings, as already stated. For thisreason I impart to said annular flange that hardness which is necessaryin that particular portion of the gem setting, but do not produce itelsewhere. Thus the same unitary article shown in Fig. 3 has differentqualities at different parts thereof, superior hardness in the flange T,where fine and delicate ornamentation is intended, which I desire tomake as beautiful and artistic as possible; but not in the base wherethe ordinary density of the metal is desired for other reasons. g

It is obvious that in order to get the angular effect of the trimming ofthe flange T along the bevel z a, said flange T must stand at an angleof about 45, as before described.

In this manner, access to the interior surface of the flange T by thetrimming tool is absolutely necessary. But in the prior art, if theflange is straight and tubular, having a diameter equal to the diameterof the base, a trimming tool cannot be applied at an angle thereto onthe inner surface thereof; nor can said flange be flared, because itwould be split. In my process of manufacture, not only does the flangeflare sufficiently to enable the trimming tool to be applied angularly,but after the trimming has been done, the draw plate operation bringsthe flange to the same diameter as that of the base.

It is obvious that the form of the blank may be modified to producesimilar results but within the scope of my invention. Instead of havingthe in Figs. 1 and 2, the sides may be prolonged as indicated by dottedlines R R, thus making the whole blank a cone instead of a conicsection. If desired such blank may be pierced either before or after theswag.

blank dished as shown ing, as indicated by the dotted lines R; or,

as shown in Fig. 7 the blank may be cupped and have a solid bottom, asrepresented at or, the bottom, however, can be made with a centralcircular hole or aperture cut, as indicated by the dotted lines in saidfigure.

I claim as a novel and useful invention and desire to secure by LettersPatent:

The improved process of manufacturing box settings for gems, consistingof the following steps, first, forming from sheet metal a circularwasher with a central circular aperture and cupping said washer;secondly, forming a tubular base of uniform thickness with a flaringflange extending from said base on the upper edge thereof at an angle ofabout 45 therefrom and imparting to said flaring flange by cold-swaginga quality of greater hardness than said base has and at the same timeforming an interior gemsupporting seat between said flange and base;thirdly, trimming the outer edge of said flange into an ornamentationhaving a beveled outline; and fourthly drawing said flaring flange by adraw plate and plunger so as to give to both the base and said trimmedflange a uniform cylindrical exterior surface.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

FRANK E. FARNHAM.

Witnesses JOSEPH P. WHITAKER, L1LL1'AN S. BARRETT.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, I). C.

